Monday, September 22, 2014

Lacey cutwork skirt size small reworked into size 14 with a yoga style waistband

This month I refashioned a couple of skirts from a size small to a ladies size 14. I really liked both of the skirts which I found at the second hand store for only a few dollars, but they were both very small sizes, which would not fit me. I made a mistake and did not get pictures of the skirts before I refashioned them so I have searched the net for similiar examples of what I started with. The first skirt is a white skirt with a gathered waist and beautiful cutwork bottom. I have always wanted a white lacey skirt and I did not want a thing like a size to stop me from having one. I only had the chance to wear it once this summer but I received many compliments when I did. The skirt has a very full waist with plenty of gathers which worked very well for my alterations. It looked very much like the skirt pictured below.

The first step to this refashion was to
cut away the waist band. I was left with a much larger waist opening than the original dress. This made it much more flattering, as even the smallest of waists are not complimented by a very full gathered waist. At this point you will need to try on the skirt and alter the waist close to your actual size, by taking in darts as needed. The yoga waistband will be close to your actual size.  I measured out the center back, center front and two equal side seams and marked them with a large pin at each junction. This makes it easier to evenly disperse the skirt fabric to a new waistband so that any excess fabric is equal among sections. I have a few chronic pain issues, one of which is pain on my right side. I find wearing a tight and uncomfortable waist band makes my pain worse. So my refashion needed to address this issue as well. I chose to make a pattern styled after a roll down yoga pant waistband. I had to purchase a small amount of stretch knit fabric for the waistband. I cut my pattern as follows. I made the waistband 12 inches in height the same size as my waist measurement. I then measured in two inches at the six inch center of the band where the red dots are in the picture. The next step was to use my French curve ruler to connect the bottom edge to the center measurement. If your fabric does not have much stretch only measure in one inch. If you do not have a french curve ruler you can freehand the curve. You will want to fold the pattern in half to trace the curve to both sides of the pattern as shown. You will end up with an hour glass shaped pattern. Cut out two pieces of fabric with the pattern.

Here is the finished pattern. I am currently a size 14 and the width of my skirt is 62 inches, so the width of my pattern is 31 inches. The height is 12 inches. The height measurement does not change unless you want your waistband to be shorter or taller. The tallest I would go would be 16 inches or you could go down to 8 inches if you choose. At 12 inches you will have a six inch waistband when you are done. If you go down to an eight inch height you will only have a single band and not one that can be folded over. 

Now comes the easy part. Cut two pieces out of the pattern from your stretch fabric. You will want the greatest amount of stretch to go across the waist line. Put the right sides together of your cut fabric and sew together the two curved seams with a 1/4 inch seam. Serge the seam if you have a serger, otherwise sew the seam with a stretch stich and finish the seam allowance. Fold the band in half along the six inch mark. with right sides out and wrong sides together. Divide the waistband into quarters. Match the quarter marks to the center front, center back and side seams of your skirt with right sides together. Sew the seam with a long basting stitch. I find this is better than a permanent seam to start with. Try on your skirt and make sure you are happy with the way it sits. Remove all of the pins and serge the waistband to the skirt. As above if you do not have a serger sew the seam with a stretch stitch and finish the edges. Remove the basting stitches. Press the seam for a finished look. Enjoy your new skirt with a comfortable yoga style band.

I am so pleased with my new white skirt that I made another one out of a soft chambray with a printed denim waistband. I could not get stretch denim that was faded like the chambray so I turned it inside out and used the faded inside print as the outside. Otherwise it was made exactly the same as the first skirt. 

I promise next time I will get a picture of the before skirt, it is new for me to post my refashions. This post will also be seen at Refashion Co-op. It will be my first refashion post. 

Thanks for reading this post that I had so much fun doing, Cherie

1 comment:

  1. Yeah, so glad to see someone else trying to upcycle the sizes. Any luck with tops? I have a coat that's too small and am looking for someone who's successfully added fabric to a coat/jacket.